Where to Stay in Portugal Now
From a 17th-century palace-turned-boutique-hotel in Lisbon to a whitewashed villa on the Azores, these hotels offer an unforgettable way to experience one of 2018’s hottest travel destinations.
Continental Europe’s westernmost country is having its moment. Tourism-wide, it’s never been more popular. In fact, Portuguese hotels welcomed over 21 million visitors last year—over double its population. To keep pace, the hospitality scene is growing exponentially: nearly 100 hotels are scheduled to open or renovate in 2018, giving travelers even more of a choice of offerings. To help make sense of it all, we’ve handpicked our favorite new, refurbished, or expanded properties throughout Portugal, from a cliffside hotel in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean to a charming six-suite hideaway in one of Lisbon’s most visited neighborhoods.
Lisbon: The Lumiares
The team behind this project in the heart of Bairro Alto is reluctant to place their 17th-century-palace-turned-boutique-hotel in the “apartment-style” category of accommodations. But when all of its the 53 Art Deco-swathed guestrooms, from studios to lofts to multi-bedroom penthouses, come equipped with full, modern kitchens and fridges stocked with wines from the Douro Valley, it’s hard to not feel as if you’ve just landed in your very own home-away-from-home. Indeed, the designers infused the space with Portuguese-inspired comforts, from colorful hand-woven blankets by Alentejo-based maker Mizette Nielsen to delicate china from centuries-old Vista Alegre. Add the quaint basement-level spa and a rooftop restaurant featuring meals by renowned local chef Miguel Castro e Silva and sweeping views of the city’s red-roof skyline, and you’ll truly wish this was more than just a vacation. From $235; Rua do Diário de Notícias 142; 351-21/116-0200; thelumiares.com.
Lisbon: Santa Clara 1728
Tucked away on a romantic plaza in the bohemian neighborhood of Alfama, this transformed 18th-century building is minimalism at its very best. The six spacious suites (starting at 540 square feet) were renovated with materials that you would often see in many of the city’s historic palaces and churches like local marble, pine, and handmade tiles before sleek four-poster beds, crafted by Italian designer Antonio Citterio, oversized limestone soaking tubs, and slender mid-century chairs completed the barely-there aesthetic. The pared-down visuals and warm intimacy of such a small hotel provide respite from Lisbon’s now nearly deafening tourist din. From $370; Campo Santa Clara 128; 351-934/418-316; santaclara1728.com.
Porto: Torel Avantgarde
No two of the 47 rooms here are alike. Named after and inspired by some of history’s most renowned innovators like Zaha Hadid, Marcel Duchamp, and Oscar Wilde (among others), each unit is decorated to reflect the achievements of its namesake figure. The Andy Warhol room is filled with his pop-art replicas; another, named after Frank Lloyd Wright, is decidedly more modernist. While the novelty of having every single room take on a design personality of its own adds a choose-your-own-adventure quality to a stay, it’s actually in the public spaces where the hotel truly shines. The flower room—a hallway that connects the lobby to the on-site restaurant The Digby, where the kitchen serves upscale Portuguese cuisine—is a wide, light-bathed passage transformed into a kitschy interior garden of fake flowers. The walls are covered with faux roses in pink, red, and yellow; while the ceiling drips with a rainbow of blooms. From $250; Rua da Restauração 336; 351-22/011-0082; torelavantgarde.com.
Alentejo: Sublime Comporta
90 minutes south of Lisbon, the quiet beach town of Comporta, with its sand dunes and lush rice fields, has recently gained international renown as the quaint weekend hangout of the Portuguese as well as in-the-know international jetsetters. Most of them stay in guesthouses and countryside villas, but the rest are snatching up reservations at this stunning retreat, which recently unveiled multi-room villas on its expansive 17-acre property (10 minutes from the beach). Minimally decorated—blankets of white punctuated by wood elements—like the rest of Sublime, these A-frame villas, modeled after traditional farmers’ cabanas, are easily the best bookings in the region with their indoor/outdoor fireplaces and individual plunge pools, each canopied by romantic pine and cork trees. From $280; Grândola; 351-269/449-376; sublimecomporta.pt.
Algarve: Fazenda Nova Country House
The Algarve has long been known as Portugal’s summertime playground thanks to development in resort towns like Portimão and Albufeira. But if you’re looking for a more rustic destination better suited for a laidback holiday, you’ll want to head further east towards the Spanish border, where you’ll stay at Fazenda Nova, a lovingly transformed farmhouse. It harvests and produces its own olive oil, contains an on-site herb and vegetable garden, and offers access to the Fazenda Nova beach, which was introduced last year. The property first opened in 2012 with 10 suites but expanded this March with five more keys, including one to a massive 970-square-foot master suite with its own dining room, a garden with a plunge pool, and a dedicated entrance for the utmost in privacy. From $255; Santo Estevão; 351-281/961-913; fazendanova.eu.
Algarve: Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort
There truly is something for everyone at this resort, which was rebranded and fully renovated in 2017 as an Anantara property (the first in Europe). For golf enthusiasts, it overlooks the Arnold Palmer-designed Oceânico course. And for those looking for pampering, the spa treatments feature local ingredients like citruses, figs, and almonds. Its collection of dining venues should please gourmands who can check out breezy Ria (for fresh seafood served poolside) and elegant Emo (modern Portuguese paired with the best local wines). But if you’re keen on doing nothing at all, a handful of pools await, including a particularly relaxing spot for adults only. From $175; Victoria Gardens, Avenida dos Descobrimentos; 351-289/317-000; anantara.com.
Azores: White
The owners of this intimate nine-suite and one-villa property took inspiration from Greece’s iconic white-washed cliffside resorts. Thus, White—from its roost right on the edge of the island of São Miguel, 50 feet over the ocean—boasts a streamlined aesthetic unlike anything else in the Azores. The stark ivory foundation is beautifully punched up with decorative elements like chunky macramé wall hangings, reclaimed wood coffee tables, and sculptural wicker furniture. Its restaurant Cardume, exclusive to hotel guests, serves locally inspired treats like fish confit drizzled with passion fruit sauce and gin and tonics featuring Azorean gin. The saltwater infinity pool is a relaxing perch that provides unobstructed views of the Atlantic. From $250; Rua Rocha Quebrada, 10, Ponta Delgada; 351-296/249-153; whiteazores.com.
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